Camino Wander #3: Day 26

Tardajos - Hornillos del Camino

When people find out that I have walked with Camino twice before, they immediately ask why am I walking a third time? Especially when they find out that I’m walking the same route for the third time. I hesitate to tell them. It tends to change the conversation completely.

For me, this is clearly a research trip. I have already had the life-changing Camino experience, and I don’t expect it to happen again. I don’t even want it to happen again. I’m happy with my life. I don’t want anything to change.

The Camino feels a lot different this time. I almost feel a little disconnected. It’s not that I’m not emerging myself in the experience. It’s that I’m more observant watching how other people are emerging themselves in the experience. I guess you could call me a spectator.

There are still the bed runners, the people who race for a bed, especially as it is so busy. There are the does-eyed first-timers, still figuring things out, despite being a third of the way in. Of these groups, many still believe that the Camino will provide, but I’m not seeing that as much this time. In three weeks I’ve seen it happen twice.

The first time was for my friend Ilse, when she couldn’t find bed in Biskaretta. I had a private room and was able to switch it to share it with her. The second time was when I got bumped from a reservation for a tourigrino group. Instead of getting a lower bunk bed, the albergue arranged a private room for me next door, at no additional cost. That’s where I am tonight. With the bus parked at the corner now, it I confirmed that it is a Korean tourigino group, cheering each other on as they’ve come into the albergue next door.

That makes me mad, to be honest. I’m grateful to have a bed, but these groups are taking away what the Camino is about. It’s become so different than what people believe it should be - a free spirited journey where they walk as far as they can, then look for a bed. Sadly, I have seen people walk 20 km, only to be taxied back because they can’t find a bed. Or worse, they walk 10 km and then have to walk 10 km back, because there are no taxis here. The Camino is a bustling business. Post Covid, I’ve seen a lot of businesses now closed, but I’ve also seen a lot of new albergues pop up. The albergue I’m in tonight is one day old.

Today’s walk was straightforward. The first part of the meseta are rolling hills. As we left Tardajos, we noticed the stock nests at the top of the church. Four huge nests on each corner and they were still building them, sweeping here and there to pick up twigs add to their new home.

It’s rare but the Camino spirit still exists. It’s harder to find, but sometimes you get nuggets of it. Like today. Whenever I see a Pilgrim walking slower than me, I ask if they’re okay. Because if someone is walking slower than me, something is not right. I mean, right now I’m walking slower than normal because I am waiting for my back to work it’s post-massage kinks out, and my knees are still grumpy. (Don’t worry - I’m also walking short days.)

As we were approaching Hornillas, I saw another pilgrim struggling. I asked if they were alright and, in broken English, said they were okay but they had sore feet. Understandable.

As we made our way towards Hornillos, we conversed through a translation app. The conversation helped the kilometres go a little faster for all of us, even if the conversation was stilted when we stopped to translate. The woman’s name was Eding and she is from Taiwan. This is her first Camino. She was so lovely and seemed to consider everything we said. Eventually, the conversation turned to why we are doing this, and whether it’s a spiritual walk. It’s those moments when you connect with someone, despite the language barriers, that I love.

Even when I met Sarah from Lichtenstein, who spoke English fairly well, we had some funny moments when things didn’t quite translate - but we had a good laugh anyway. That happened with Eding today. There was a moment when something I said didn’t translate correctly through the app and we all had totally confused look on our faces (it’s a moment that will definitely be going in the book!).

As we climbed the hills, field and fields of barley and wheat were all you could see, apart from the wind turbines surrounding us, and in the distant background, we could still see Burgos. That won’t be the case after tomorrow.

Tonight I found another lovely Camino moment. I had dinner with two Australian women, a man from Quebec, and a French couple. The Canadian was the interpreter for the rest of us. Within moments we were bonded, laughing over Camino moments. When we were shuffled on our way because of the Korean group, we moved back to our albergue and kept chatting over tea. It was the Camino moment I’d been craving.

At this point, I’ve walked 300 km. Feels like a lot more, and also means I’ve got a lot more to walk.

And a happy birthday to my daughter, Nat. My heart was with her today.

Steps: 16, 322 steps

Distance: 10.2 km

Feeling: Reflective