Camino Wander #3: Day 30, 31 and 32

Boadilla del Camino to Villarmentero de Campos to Carrion de los Condes

Hello lovelies. I am going to combine a few days here, so settle in…

I left Boadilla after enjoying a lovely private room. There is nothing like fresh sheets and towels, and a bathroom to yourself after dealing with communal spaces for days on end. The morning was fresh. I was alone and surrounding my exit from the village were swallows, dashing this way and that. There were many places to hide and dash into along the canal, And I felt they were there just for me. I often say ‘good morning’ to the birds as I mostly start out walking on my own. (Yet not alone, with the birds all atwitter!)

Before I knew it, some women I’d met in Castrojeriz had caught up to me as we headed to Frómista. It was two Australian women from Perth and an Anglican minister from one of the Carolinas in the U.S.

‘Hey - it’s Tara from Tassie!’ I heard one of the Aussies shouting from a distance.

We walked together for a while but they’re all much faster than me, so I fell behind, enjoying by the solitude again to stop and take photos. By the time I got to Frómista, I’d caught up with them again, so we enjoyed ‘second breakfast’ together. But they were going further than me, so off they went with hugs all around. I may see them again - who knows.

I am now truly on the meseta. It is flat and walking along the main road brings no joy. It is hot, straight, flat, and I daresay, boring. Now I know many love walking the meseta and this is not to rain on your parade. I just know it’s not for me.

When I had the chance to continue along the road, or walk along the shaded river, it was a no brainer. It was delightful. Birds sang - the swallows continued - and I saw the biggest bumble bees on the wildflowers lining the path that I have ever seen in my life. We have big, fat, beautiful ones in Tasmania, but these bees were humungous.

I walked with a woman from Japan for a while. It’s hard to say if she was young or old, as she was covered from head to toe, including hat and huge sunglasses, but we managed to converse for 6 km. She’d lost her mum - her best friend - last year, and after crying constantly for a few months, she realised it was time to live her life. So, now she travels to all the places she has dreamed about for 3 months every year. I didn’t ask her what she did for a living to allow her to do this - it’s irrelevant - but she seemed very happy to make this decision with her life. I may have talked her into housesitting, too! (No, I didn’t tell her about my novel - no need to scare her off!)

When I arrived at my albergue, I have to admit it was an eye opener. I have never stayed in such a dive. If something wasn’t broken, it was dirty. Basic doesn’t even describe the place. I’ve stayed in some basic places but it felt like this a guy was trying to bleed money from pilgrims, delivering the bare minimum while he drank and smoked outside, waiting for more suckers to walk into the overgrown yard. I just got the heebie jeebies staying there and I could not get out fast enough the following day. But his dog was cute!

So I walked on the next day, leaving early, again taking the path along the river. It was a short 10km to get to my destination with 4km along the river - i was sad when it ended. I took a break, then I faced the next part - 6km of straight road, with no shade, and nowhere to stop.

As many of you know, this is my third Camino. Never have I used headphones before but, with this stretch, I had to. I have a ‘Camino Kickass’ playlist and it helped get me through those 6km. By the time I arrived in Carrion de los Condes, I felt spent. All I wanted was shade, something cold to drink, and a nap. Especially when it dawned on me that I’ve walked over 400km in a month, but that last two kilometres seemed to go in forever.

I found my hostal - with a private room that I had been dreaming about - and checked in around noon. Thankfully, the reception was open and they showed me to my room. As soon as I saw it, I wanted to cry. It was dark, cool and it had a beautiful bathroom with large white towels. And it was all mine.

It was after a three hour nap (!) that I realised that I had not had a proper rest day since Pamplona - almost 300 km ago. I was supposed to have one in Burgos, but I shared my room. There was no rest. (I won’t be doing that again.)

So, after a quick trip to the market (tienda/supermercado) for some late lunch/dinner supplies, I decided that I needed to change my plan. Three hours later (and food in my stomach), I completely rearranged my plan, with rest days built in, fast-forwarding sections I don’t need to revisit, or sections I just don’t want to walk.

Ah… the advantage of walking two Caminos before.

Many of you have asked me if I’m okay. Many have asked why I’m still walking, as I don’t seem to be enjoying my Camino.

I guess I do need to include more of the positives of this wander. I see that now.

I am enjoying being back in Spain, seeing the abundance of wildflowers, meeting people from Europe, drinking good quality Vinto Tinto (red wine), and sharing stories over dinner. And there are people who work the Camino who truly consider it a calling - and it shows.

Sure, there are things I am disappointed by and, yes, I have been ready to lose it on some self-absorbed people. But I have faith that the Camino spirit still exists.

I am hoping I don’t jinx myself by saying this, but my body is keeping up - I have had a couple of small blisters, and my legs and joints hurt at the end of every day, but it’s nothing more than I expected. Unlike others around me, I’m listening to my body. I am resting, walking slower, or walking shorter distances - I’ll still get there in the end just like most others. With my new plan, I’ll be getting better rest, because I know my current plan has flaws.

The piece I have struggled with - and I continue to struggle with this in real life - is setting boundaries and making sure I get downtime. But after this Camino, I may have finally learned my lesson. 🤣

The other lesson I’ve learned so far? I need to shut up and observe, because human behaviour is both twisted and fascinating. Some of you have suggested I write a novel combining suspense and the Camino, with a dead body included… after this Camino, that could be a possibility. But is that me or my character talking? (My character, of course! 😉🤣)

One thing that I’ve truly loved is staying connected with those I’ve met along the way. Some I’ve met have already made it to Santiago. Some have gone home, either because of illness or because their planned time is done. Some are still day-drinking their way along the track, just ahead of me. But while we didn’t get to spend a lot of time together, we are staying connected through What’sApp. I have made great connections on previous Caminos this way, too. And I’m excited, because I’ve already been invited to Holland and Liechtenstein!

So yes, I’m doing okay.

But if someone can please tell the man in the bunk next to me to wash his clothes, that would be great… I bet he’ll be the snorer tonight.

Steps: 71,541 steps

Distance: 48.2 km (three days)

Feeling: So tired but enjoying the journey (most days).