Camino Wander #3: Day 33 & 34

Carrión de los Condes to Calzadilla de la Cueza to San Nicholas del Real Camino

I took a taxi from Carrión de los Condes to Calzadilla de la Cueza. The drive was fantastic. I didn’t feel like I was cheating at all, which is a change from previous Camino wanders.

I woke up in my private room in Carrion still feeling wiped out, so instead of tackling the 17k walk with no services, no shade, and 24-degree temperatures, I decided it was better to spend the 30 euros on a taxi. It turned out to be the best decision because when I arrived at Calzadilla de la Cueza, I saw those walking in looking like they were straight out of a zombie movie—sweating profusely and limping everywhere. So yeah, definitely a good choice!

Calzadilla de la Cueza is tiny—really tiny—and there wasn’t much around. The one bar that had great reviews on the Camino apps was closed since it was Sunday. The other bar was open but packed with pilgrims who had nowhere else to eat; there seemed to be just one waitress handling everything. And the food wasn’t great either. I ordered the beef tenderloin and was delivered pork. I should’ve read the Spanish more closely, but I was tired.

The albergue was full of people coughing, farting, and snoring all night long—even with silicone earplugs in, I heard it all!

It started with a symphony of farting. It’s like the international community have heard the Germans farting and realising it’s okay to let go. Every nationality was doing it last night. Then the coughing began - if I don’t get sick, it will be a Camino miracle, as people were coughing all around me. One was the guy next to me, coughing in my direction. And then the snoring started. Even with the earplugs in, it was … L O U D.

On top of that, I could feel the springs in the bed through the mattress last night—it was not fun at all! If you ever walk this Camino route, I'd recommend heading straight to the next town instead; there's a much nicer albergue there that I wish I'd been able to book months ago before they filled up.

I'm trying to stay positive here, but … let my try that again.

Today's walk was been more appealing than what I've experienced lately. We are back to rolling hills again. There’s still plenty of wheat and barley fields bordered by red poppies and some wildflowers I've never seen before—it’s quite lovely. There are trees lining the path too, with small wrens and finches chirping.

I only saw about ten people today which was fantastic! Many of them left early - alarms were going off at 5am and I was ahead of those doing the longer stretch.

When I reached my albergue, the village right before the halfway point, I was welcomed with a smile and genuine hospitality. It’s comforting. Every interaction I’ve had with the owner, Daniela (a pilgrim herself), has been by name. We talked a little about the Camino and what has changed since our last Camino’s and she agreed (and added her own thoughts) - which confirmed for me that it's time to fast forward.

I know these updates might be getting boring by now; not much is changing day by day. I’m not really connecting with anyone at the moment. The conversations are all the same with those I do meet - Where are you from? Where did you start? Are you going all the way to Santiago? Most walk faster or are going further than me. And I am still enjoying walking alone - the singing and dancing has started. (When no one is around, of course.) i thought it was interesting today, that the songs I tend to be singing are songs from my youth - Billy Joel, Barbra Streisand (now aren’t you glad you’re not here to her THAT?!), and a Kiwi sang a Crowded House song the other day that’s become an earworm - ‘Weather With You’. Bloody Kiwis.

I’ll be taking a train to Leon tomorrow, and I'm really happy about it. Ironically enough, I'd originally planned on skipping Leon because my past experiences there weren’t great... but maybe third time's the charm? Fingers crossed!

Steps: 27,649 steps

Distance: 18 km (two days)

Feeling: The weather is cool again and I am looking forward to a good night’s sleep.

Hobbit houses - where the Spanish store(d) their wine.