Right now I’m sitting in the plaza in Astorga. It’s not that busy at the moment. I’m earlier than the usual pilgrims.
I took the train from Leon - it was easy to find and easy to take. It wasn’t expensive either, considering I just fast forwarded three days. I had to laugh though: in the middle of nowhere was a house with a trampoline in the backyard. What was not typical about the scenario was the goat splayed out in the middle of the trampoline, basking in the sun.
I found my hotel easily. I’ve stayed here before. It’s one with an amazing view which they clearly cash- in on, since the hotel could use some serious updating. Still… the view is amazing.
When I checked into the hotel, there was a humungous French group who’d arrived for lunch, and they all seemed lost to find the toilet. As I waited in line to check in, I quickly learned ‘toilet’ - and how to give directions - in French. I think the receptionist was relieved - and appreciative.
But back to the square… I have now heard four young American women compare notes about their high school experience. One was a nerd. Another seemed more like the alpha of any group. Another seemed like a serious overachiever. The last one stayed quiet. They clearly grew up in difference places and I suspect they didn’t meet until the Camino. But I wonder, how did these four young women, who I’d put to be straight out of college, meet on the Camino? (They may be straight out of high school for all I know - I can’t tell anymore. And there are so many young kids walking the Camino now… wow, I sound old saying that!) I also wonder what their initial conversation was like? Did they meet in an albergue? Did they meet while they were walking? I probably should have asked, but then I’d be that invasive older woman (hello boomer - although NOT a boomer) putting her nose in where it’s not wanted.
I’m eager to walk tomorrow. I thought of taking a taxi, but I’ll send my pack on and start early. It’s 20 km tomorrow. Doable but I’ll see how I do. I worry about the wild lavender along this section (I’m allergic to lavender). I encountered some when I walked in 2019, so have antihistamines and my buff at the ready. But that was also 6 years ago. Anything could change.
I have two nights in Rabanel because I really want to stay at the donativo as I’ve had Camino friends volunteer at this place and highly recommend it. Since I could not find any place to stay just before, nothing without lavender around the place anyway, i decided to stay elsewhere for one night, then check into the donativo the following day. There are only 25 beds there and you can’t reserve, so it’s first in, first served.
Ah… I am starting to see familiar faces now. It helps to fast forward. I’m seeing people I met in Castrojeriz. It’s nice to catch up. People are now saying they will get to Santiago rather than saying ‘that’s the plan’. And, they are already starting to think about their ‘next time’. I remember that feeling.
One thing that’s refreshing to see are the number of little kids playing unattended, free as they can be. Some kick the soccer ball around. Others play tag. Some are on bikes or scooters. None are on a device and none have parents helicoptering them. It’s like looking back and seeing my own childhood. Ahhh…
Oh and I think I’ve dodged the cold bullet. I’ve been drinking tons of orange juice and taking cold meds as a preventative. Woohoo!
Steps: 8, 044 steps
Distance: 5.7 km
Feeling: Observant if not a little invisible.
The Gaudi Palace in Astorga - my room with a view.
Great keeping up with your journey. Stay well. Xx
Love the photos Tara and glad you're taking care of yourself. xx