Camino Wander #3: Day 41 +

Cacabelos to Trabadelo

I am laying in the bottom bed of the last bunk bed I will ever sleep in (I hope). And it’s been the rickety experience you would expect. The woman above me flipped more times than a fish out of water.

Over the last few days while walking I have decided that I am done walking my Camino.

I came to walk for two reasons.

The first was to prove to myself that I could do it post spine surgery. I discovered that I can carry my pack comfortably for up to 10-12km but anything over that, my neck gets a bit grumpy. I have my backpack adjusted correctly, but the extra pressure isn’t good on the longer days.

The other reason was for research for my upcoming novel. I have more than I need now for that. Even scenery wise, I’ve taken more photos and notes than I probably need.

So I’ve accomplished both goals.

Many have asked if I’ve been enjoying my Camino. I have been sharing the reality of walking, and probably a little too much of that reality, to be fair. I haven’t really talked about the people I’ve met because of privacy reasons and besides, they have their own stories to share. They aren’t mine to share here.

I have met some truly lovely, caring people that I have had some good conversations with. Not as many as I would have liked, but that’s okay. I’ve also met some people who I would like to never meet again. Some, let’s say, who probably need to be medicated, or have their medications changed. But you get all kinds, just like in life.

The Camino has a different vibe now, and it is one shared by seasoned pilgrims - and pilgrims who walked prior to the pandemic - but also by those who own albergues. I talked to a handful of albergue owners and they are disappointed to see it’s becoming more of a tourist destination. That you aren’t seeing the connections you once did, despite people claiming they came to do the Camino for that.

The hardest part for me has been seeing the amount of selfishness - on both sides of the equation - and the disregard of caring for each other. I can’t tell you how shocked cafe owners seem to be when I take my dishes back to the counter when I’m done eating. Most people come in like a hoard of locusts. It’s the little gestures that mean so much. Or asking if someone is okay if you’re walking by and seeing them sitting alone. It was only yesterday - however many days into my Camino - that a random pilgrim asked me if I was okay, when I was sitting in the shade.

So, I am finishing my Camino on a high by staying at Casa Susi’s in Trabadello. I’ve become friends with Sue and Fermin over the years and I was welcomed with open arms yesterday. I will stop for night or two, then head to Santiago to retrieve my suitcase.

One other reason I am ending my Camino is because there is a heat wave going through at the moment - highs in the mid 30’s (mid 90’s) and I don’t do heat. I can get up and out early walking until noon or so, but it’s no fun. Oh and the lavender has continued… so there’s that.

And then there are my bookings, which are proving challenging since I had to fast forward due to the lavender. As I mentioned, I would have had to walk 37 in 7 days. (That’s a two day walk for me.) But to slow down from where I am, with small villages, there are limited places to stay and most won’t allow multiple nights. And, even with my alternate plan to walk the spiritual variant on the Portuguese route, bookings are proving challenging to change. The Camino is busy.

It just got to the point where I thought - do I need to keep walking? That answer came swiftly.

What I discovered is that this Camino is unlike the others. I am an observer. I am happy and fulfilled with my life. I don’t need any like changing moments or ah-ha moments.

So I am ending it in Trabadelo, which is 166km from Santiago de Compostela. I don’t see it as quitting. I feel like I have done what I came for. And I can say confidently that I’ve walked a third Camino.

The best part of my Camino ending is that I was blessed with a surprise at Susi’s. It was so amazing to see Susi and Fermin, but around the corner pops my friend Lindsay, who has been walking multiple Caminos for over a year. He paused his own Camino in France to travel 2000km to come and see me. I’m still in shock that he did that. The funny part was, I follow his daily Facebook posts, but I didn’t pick up that his ‘personal break’ post was to a cloak because he was coming and see me.

So what’s next, apart from Santiago? No clue. I just know that I will find the right place to reflect, rest, write - and sleep. I feel like to want to sleep for a week.

I’m going to take a few days break, to sort out what’s next, but I’ll be back with more soon.

P.S. Ironically, it’s been 7 years since I finished my first Camino today. I think it’s fitting to have come full circle.

Steps: 60,411 steps

Distance: 42.8 km

Feeling: Accomplished. 😊