Camino Wander #3: Day 5

An unexpected day

I wondered, when I went to be last night, who would be the loudest snorer in the room. One of the older South Korean guys - or me. I’ve been dealing with a lot of congestion for the past week. I can’t even call it a cold. It’s like a sinus infection with a tickle in my throat when I lay down (from post nasal drip, most likely). I’m happy to report, I was told this morning that I was NOT the loudest in the room. I mean, even I was awoken by the chainsaw massacre going on in the bunk next to me.

But that’s dorm life. There was a post on a Facebook group in the last few days where one pilgrim demanded that anyone who snores should get a private room, so the rest of the dorm could sleep. The responses were swift and brutal. The consensus was that it’s all part of the experience and your sleeping in a communal space - it’s to be expected. Others said that they’re the ones who should take a private room if it was that much of a bother affecting their beauty sleep.

Tonight I’m in Pamplona. I have a hotel room and, to say that I’m excited to be sleeping away from people, knowing there wont be comments on my snoring, is exciting. I mean, I know I snore. Especially right now with this congestion issue- but I do warn people - and I can’t help it at all. I even offered someone two of my six silicone earplugs!

So why am I in Pamplona? Wasn’t I supposed to be in Zalbadika?

The answer is simple: the nuns were closed. Their donativo albergue opens tomorrow for the season. Unfortunately their website offers no information about that, so I had to keep walking. It was a risk. I knew that. But also, I sadly arrived right as siesta started, so I didn’t even have the opportunity to ring the bell. Oh well. I have done that twice before - and I have beautiful memories from before. It is a special moment though.

So, i had no choice but to continue to Pamplona. It was extra kilometres I did not anticipate. Of course, it was raining, I was carrying my backpack, and my feet were still wet from the previous day’s walk, so that wasn’t good. And yes, there was a resulting blister. I couldn’t avoid it. It’s treatable and it will clear up quickly.

I did not have a reservation heading to Pamplona which was a worry, especially since it was Easter Sunday. When I arrived at five in the afternoon, the plaza was hopping. People were everywhere.

I was unable to find an albergue (I did not want to go to the municipal)z at that point, I was depleted. All I wanted was a private room with a hot shower. The alburgue in Zubiri, the night before, had no hot water - not their fault - something went wrong with their hot water system, and I had not had a private room since Paris. So it was time.

Unfortunately it means that I have three nights in Pamplona because I booked ahead. I know, poor me - not. But I’m starting to wish I hadn’t done that - because it means my Camino family will be a day ahead - or more - given my shorter jaunts. But that was also a risk. I knew that would likely happen. It’s just sad. You make connections and then you wave goodbye. Luckily I was able to have a drink with one Englishman I met on Day 1 in Saint Jean Pied de Port. Sadly, his Camino is over (due to kidney issues). He’s homebound tomorrow.

Pamplona tonight in the main plaza was a sight. I did not take a photo -or video - but there was a concert going on in the plaza. The place was literally thumping. It was incredible, but I was dealing with sensory overload with it all after quiet days.

Plus, I was so tired, my brain wasn’t working too well, especially after walking 21km in the rain with my backpack. (It was a bit of a ‘Private Benjamin’ moment.) All I could manage was having a hot shower, finding food, and falling into bed.

I will sleep well, I’m sure.

Zubiri to Pamplona.

Steps: 31,830

Distance: 23.1km (by the end of the day)

Feeling: Depleted.

Leaving Zubiri

Zalbadika - walking toward Pamplona

Pamplona at 8pm on Easter Sunday.