Camino Wander #3: What’s Next

Fisterra/ Finisterre

It's been a few days since I last posted about my decision to end my Camino in Trabadello. What a fantastic visit it was! I got to see the other side of an albergue, and let me tell you, it was enlightening. Susi and Fermin (from Casa Susi) work their asses off—running around from morning ‘til night. I realised just how much effort goes into running an albergue, and honestly, I can safely say it's not something I'll ever do. Ever.

Since I ended my Camino, I have struggled with what to do next. After getting my suitcase in Santiago, I finally decided to go to Finisterre—essentially the end of the world. Some pilgrims walk to Finisterre after reaching Santiago and, in days gone by, it was considered the ‘end of the world’ since no land could be seen - and they thought the earth was flat.

Instead of walking from Santiago myself, I took a three-hour bus ride that stopped at every little town along the way. It was beautiful watching the countryside pass by! Once we reached the coast, we went through quaint seaside villages before arriving at Finisterre. I found a beachfront apartment just a kilometer from town—which gives me some peace away from all the pilgrim madness.

Speaking of madness, let’s talk about Santiago for a moment. My hatred for bagpipes has been confirmed after booking a hotel half a block from where they play as pilgrims come into town—it felt like torture listening all day long!

To give you some context: my biological father used to brag about our Scottish heritage and even learned how to play bagpipes himself—but when I traced our ancestry back to 1604 on Ancestry.com, guess what? No Scottish roots whatsoever! So yeah, bagpipes really get under my skin now.

Anyway, back in Finisterre—it’s absolutely stunning here with turquoise waters and gentle beaches. There are apparently lots of shipwrecks in this bay too! great for snorkeling! I'm sitting here with both doors open; seagulls are flying by while a soft breeze rolls in—I feel content.

I’ll only be here for a few days before heading back to Santiago because some Camino friends are walking in—they continued walking while I took transportation—and we’re going to celebrate our journeys together! Despite walking 550 kms, which I’m proud of, part of me feels like I'm not deserving of celebration. Not exactly feeling like a fraud; rather more like an observer than participant with this walk—even though I've walked many steps myself.

When I arrived in Santiago (an overnight stay to get my suitcase), I was amongst all those emotional pilgrims celebrating their arrivals while crying tears of joy—and I felt numb. I am hoping that seeing my friends again will help me feel more connected when we celebrate together!

During my time in Finisterre, though—I did walk nine kilometres round trip up to "the end of the world" headland where the zero-kilometre marker stands—you know—the symbolic finish line?

As i was leaving the headland—a woman walked toward me, carrying her backpack, and she looked overwhelmed with emotion; she started crying—and without thinking twice—I smiled at her and said “You made it!” She hugged me tightly as she cried—it turned out being such beautiful moment shared between two pilgrims finishing our journeys together! So in that moment, I felt like I was a pilgrim again.

So yes—this is definitely an accomplishment worth celebrating—even if it doesn’t always feel earned somehow (and trust me—I know people might have thoughts on this!). But honestly? My Camino days may be over now—and that's okay because I'm looking forward returning home soon—to Tasmania where life awaits!

Before heading home though—I've still got two weeks left, which led yesterday afternoon consumed with what else could fill my time before heading to London… eventually I turned to ChatGPT for ideas (thanks for the prompt Lindsay and Meredith!)

After lots of deliberating over options (decision fatigue hit hard!) I woke up today still unsure…walking the spiritual variant on the Portuguese Camino didn’t excite me anymore. When I began chatting via FaceTime with husband, I showed him the views here and he asked me: ‘why would you leave there?’

It made me realise: when will I have another opportunity for a beach getaway - alone? It’s a great place to write! Plus there is a bonus—it also has a heated pool, which means daily hydrotherapy sessions can happen alongside long beach walks stretching miles long…so yeah - why leave?

So yes indeed - I will head back to Santiago to celebrate, then return for eight glorious days, soaking up sun & sea, and writing - yay!!!

Thanks to everyone for your lovely comments. Throughout this journey i have felt deeply supported by you all—but i wondered why people thought I was hating the Camino?! So i went back and read my posts. The struggles were real - sure - but I have enjoyed being back in Spain and walking. I just don’t feel like a ‘Camino Tragic’ anymore.

More to come soon…